Which contrada are you in?
This question is often asked all over Siena. It is an inquiry that means much more than the location of your apartment in the city. This phrase is ultimately asking, "Who are you?"
This question is often asked all over Siena. It is an inquiry that means much more than the location of your apartment in the city. This phrase is ultimately asking, "Who are you?"
Upon arriving in this picturesque, medieval city of Siena, I was reminded by a native that "We are not simply Italian, we are Sienese." At that time, I did not understand the depth of this statement or how it would shape the interaction between religion, politics, and culture in Siena. After living in the Contrada Montone for the past two months I have a new understanding of what it means to be Sienese. My contrada's red and yellow flags have their symbol, the ram, placed prominently on them as a way of letting others know who they are. The relatively small city of Siena is divided into 17 contradas, similar to neighborhoods, and each contrada self-governs by enacting unique laws for its citizens. As a result, a contrada embodies a certain identity and breeds a sense of intense pride and camaraderie amongst its members.
In Siena, religion is deeply ingrained in the city's past and as a result remains present today. Around every corner a Catholic depiction lies painted on the aged stone walls of the city's buildings. Saint Catherine's relics are held in one of the city's churches, and the Duomo towers above its surroundings for all to see its vast beauty. While enrolling in the Università di Siena, I spotted a painting of the Duomo on the wall of the university's office. In this way, the Duomo is not so much a religious symbol, but a Sienese symbol of tradition. A tribute to Siena's individuality in Tuscany and Italy is the fact that the tower in its main piazza, Piazza del Campo, rises to the same height as the magnificent Duomo. From afar one sees the two symbolic buildings as equals. One represents Siena's religious traditions, while the other reveals the commune's commitment to strong and fair government and the promotion of a common good. This intertwining of religious tradition and strong political conviction defines Siena. The Sienese sense of religion is unique, and it revolves around a respect for the sacred nature of the Palio, two annual horse races which take place each July and August.
Every summer on July 2 and August 16, excitement mounts in Siena's main square, Piazza del Campo, as the preparations for their traditional horse race finish, and the race begins at last. The race is much more than a fun summer celebration for the Sienese, and each contrada is full of hope, fear, and expectation throughout the months preceding the two races. These annual events pay homage to Siena's religious past. The first takes place on the date of the Feast of the Visitation, and the second takes place on the Feast of the Assumption and honors the Virgin Mary. Although much of Siena's tourism revolves around the Palio, this has not in any way detracted from the undeniable personal significance of the races to each contrada. It is a privilege to compete in such a race and also a moment of great fortune and prosperity for the victors.
Entering the Contrada Onda's church, I was overwhelmed by the ubiquitous contrada pride. In this small but beautiful sacred space, the Contrada Onda's blue and white flags stood proudly mounted on the walls next to depictions of Jesus and Mary. Glancing around, I noticed at once that there were not one but two altars. I was soon informed that one is for regular Mass, and the other is for blessing the contrada's horse before the Palio. A video played on the other end of the church and showed footage from the last time the Contrada Onda won a Palio. Shouts and cheers echoed in the church's dome as the film played. This unconventional take on religion and specifically Catholicism is a significant facet in Sienese culture. The convergence between religion and politics in Siena, Italy are embodied by the Palio and the yearlong excitement and preparation which lead up to this event. Each day I pass a sign for a contrada meeting, see one of the neighborhood's vibrant flags waving in the breeze, or hear a mention of the Palio. This race's prominence serves as a constant reminder. Siena is different.
In Siena, religion is deeply ingrained in the city's past and as a result remains present today. Around every corner a Catholic depiction lies painted on the aged stone walls of the city's buildings. Saint Catherine's relics are held in one of the city's churches, and the Duomo towers above its surroundings for all to see its vast beauty. While enrolling in the Università di Siena, I spotted a painting of the Duomo on the wall of the university's office. In this way, the Duomo is not so much a religious symbol, but a Sienese symbol of tradition. A tribute to Siena's individuality in Tuscany and Italy is the fact that the tower in its main piazza, Piazza del Campo, rises to the same height as the magnificent Duomo. From afar one sees the two symbolic buildings as equals. One represents Siena's religious traditions, while the other reveals the commune's commitment to strong and fair government and the promotion of a common good. This intertwining of religious tradition and strong political conviction defines Siena. The Sienese sense of religion is unique, and it revolves around a respect for the sacred nature of the Palio, two annual horse races which take place each July and August.
Every summer on July 2 and August 16, excitement mounts in Siena's main square, Piazza del Campo, as the preparations for their traditional horse race finish, and the race begins at last. The race is much more than a fun summer celebration for the Sienese, and each contrada is full of hope, fear, and expectation throughout the months preceding the two races. These annual events pay homage to Siena's religious past. The first takes place on the date of the Feast of the Visitation, and the second takes place on the Feast of the Assumption and honors the Virgin Mary. Although much of Siena's tourism revolves around the Palio, this has not in any way detracted from the undeniable personal significance of the races to each contrada. It is a privilege to compete in such a race and also a moment of great fortune and prosperity for the victors.
Entering the Contrada Onda's church, I was overwhelmed by the ubiquitous contrada pride. In this small but beautiful sacred space, the Contrada Onda's blue and white flags stood proudly mounted on the walls next to depictions of Jesus and Mary. Glancing around, I noticed at once that there were not one but two altars. I was soon informed that one is for regular Mass, and the other is for blessing the contrada's horse before the Palio. A video played on the other end of the church and showed footage from the last time the Contrada Onda won a Palio. Shouts and cheers echoed in the church's dome as the film played. This unconventional take on religion and specifically Catholicism is a significant facet in Sienese culture. The convergence between religion and politics in Siena, Italy are embodied by the Palio and the yearlong excitement and preparation which lead up to this event. Each day I pass a sign for a contrada meeting, see one of the neighborhood's vibrant flags waving in the breeze, or hear a mention of the Palio. This race's prominence serves as a constant reminder. Siena is different.
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