Anish Savani on the Blend of Religion and Mysticism in Senegalese Culture
By: Anish Savani
February 24, 2009
Senegal is about 95 percent Muslim and 5 percent Christian, yet the nature of religion in Senegal is not as clear-cut as these statistics suggest.
After being in Senegal for over a month now, I can already see the way in which Islam has fused with the traditional beliefs and customs to such an extent that it is often difficult to tell where one ends and where the other begins. I hope this letter will give you a window into the world of Senegalese culture, with its blend of religion and mysticism.
Muslims in Senegal pray five times a day, whether at home, on the streets, or at a prayer ground. Every day at 6 a.m. I am woken up by the loud call to pray blasting from the mosque about 100 feet from my home stay. Friday is a special prayer day, when locals dress in their best boubous and gather in the mosques. Even though Dakar has a vibrant night life, it is not as common to see locals drinking, as Islam prohibits alcohol. My host family is Catholic, which they often make clear. Catholics in Senegal are very proud to be Catholic and have formed close communities with other Catholics. My Catholic family drinks alcohol and does not seem as superstitious as some of the Muslims I have encountered. Yet Catholics and Muslims coexist peacefully, as the Constitution provides for freedom of belief, and Senegal has no official religion. Each village or district that has a mosque also has at least one church.
Despite the strong Islamic, and to a lesser extent, Christian influences, all religion and culture in Senegal is influenced by Animism. Animism is an indigenous religion based on the belief that spirits exist in humans, animals, and non-living things, which often have magical power. Many Senegalese people still believe in the existence of supernatural forces and individuals with powers to protect against or utilize these forces. The saying goes that when Senegal was doing well in the World Cup, it was thanks to the marabouts, but when it loses it was merely the will of God. As modern as Senegal can seem at times, its culture is still heavily influenced by traditional beliefs. When someone falls ill, it is not uncommon for Senegalese people to think they have been possessed by a dëmm (witch/sorcerer). A Senegalese lady I met told me a story about when someone had complimented her new dress, the following day the dress set on fire, which made her suspicious of the person who complimented her dress.
The majority of Muslims belong to one of four Sufi brotherhoods: the Mourides, the Tidjanes, the Khadirs, and the Layènes. Mouridism seems at the moment to have a special appeal to young people. The brotherhoods are led by marabouts, who are spiritual leaders that offer prayers and charms to protect against evil spirits, to remedy a situation, or to cure a curse. Marabouts are expected to teach and counsel their followers, as well as organize their work. The marabout makes amulets for good luck known as gris-gris, which are leather objects enclosing writings from the Qur'an, which the marabout customizes for individuals. Gris-gris are a physical representation of the mixture of religion and animism, as many Senegalese people, including Catholics, wear gris-gris (except the Catholics have verses of the Bible instead of the Qur'an.)
Marabouts are believed to have the power to heal illness and grant spiritual salvation to their followers. Most marabouts have inherited their position from their fathers. Marabouts are scholars of the Qur'an and are often in charge of running the many Qur'anic schools that can be seen around the city. Since marabouts primarily rely on donations to live, they train young boys to beg on the streets. Senegal is full of boys known as talibé, who carry around tomato soup cans and beg at all hours of the day. Charity is one of the pillars of Islam, so it is common to see many Senegalese people giving food or money to these kids.
Finally, I would be remiss not to discuss teranga, which is Wolof for hospitality. It is not a coincidence that the Senegalese football team is called the Lions of Teranga, as hospitality is an integral part of Senegalese culture. Teranga is not merely an option, but rather a duty or philosophical code. It is based on the belief that a mother who assists a visitor or foreigner ensures that her children will never find themselves in a desperate situation away from home without help or support. During my past month in Dakar, I have been welcomed by my host family and been given a taste of this rich culture.
Muslims in Senegal pray five times a day, whether at home, on the streets, or at a prayer ground. Every day at 6 a.m. I am woken up by the loud call to pray blasting from the mosque about 100 feet from my home stay. Friday is a special prayer day, when locals dress in their best boubous and gather in the mosques. Even though Dakar has a vibrant night life, it is not as common to see locals drinking, as Islam prohibits alcohol. My host family is Catholic, which they often make clear. Catholics in Senegal are very proud to be Catholic and have formed close communities with other Catholics. My Catholic family drinks alcohol and does not seem as superstitious as some of the Muslims I have encountered. Yet Catholics and Muslims coexist peacefully, as the Constitution provides for freedom of belief, and Senegal has no official religion. Each village or district that has a mosque also has at least one church.
Despite the strong Islamic, and to a lesser extent, Christian influences, all religion and culture in Senegal is influenced by Animism. Animism is an indigenous religion based on the belief that spirits exist in humans, animals, and non-living things, which often have magical power. Many Senegalese people still believe in the existence of supernatural forces and individuals with powers to protect against or utilize these forces. The saying goes that when Senegal was doing well in the World Cup, it was thanks to the marabouts, but when it loses it was merely the will of God. As modern as Senegal can seem at times, its culture is still heavily influenced by traditional beliefs. When someone falls ill, it is not uncommon for Senegalese people to think they have been possessed by a dëmm (witch/sorcerer). A Senegalese lady I met told me a story about when someone had complimented her new dress, the following day the dress set on fire, which made her suspicious of the person who complimented her dress.
The majority of Muslims belong to one of four Sufi brotherhoods: the Mourides, the Tidjanes, the Khadirs, and the Layènes. Mouridism seems at the moment to have a special appeal to young people. The brotherhoods are led by marabouts, who are spiritual leaders that offer prayers and charms to protect against evil spirits, to remedy a situation, or to cure a curse. Marabouts are expected to teach and counsel their followers, as well as organize their work. The marabout makes amulets for good luck known as gris-gris, which are leather objects enclosing writings from the Qur'an, which the marabout customizes for individuals. Gris-gris are a physical representation of the mixture of religion and animism, as many Senegalese people, including Catholics, wear gris-gris (except the Catholics have verses of the Bible instead of the Qur'an.)
Marabouts are believed to have the power to heal illness and grant spiritual salvation to their followers. Most marabouts have inherited their position from their fathers. Marabouts are scholars of the Qur'an and are often in charge of running the many Qur'anic schools that can be seen around the city. Since marabouts primarily rely on donations to live, they train young boys to beg on the streets. Senegal is full of boys known as talibé, who carry around tomato soup cans and beg at all hours of the day. Charity is one of the pillars of Islam, so it is common to see many Senegalese people giving food or money to these kids.
Finally, I would be remiss not to discuss teranga, which is Wolof for hospitality. It is not a coincidence that the Senegalese football team is called the Lions of Teranga, as hospitality is an integral part of Senegalese culture. Teranga is not merely an option, but rather a duty or philosophical code. It is based on the belief that a mother who assists a visitor or foreigner ensures that her children will never find themselves in a desperate situation away from home without help or support. During my past month in Dakar, I have been welcomed by my host family and been given a taste of this rich culture.
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