Berkley Center

Egypt is a profoundly religious country, but that religiosity manifests itself in so many different ways that sometimes I find myself laughing and other times I am deeply moved. I have never in my life been in a place where religion is a part of life to the extent that it is here. Islam is woven into the fabric of this country; it is everywhere I turn. For example, I would estimate that one in four men is named Mohammed. (Trust me, it gets confusing!)

Although Islam is perhaps the most obvious thing about daily life in Cairo—mosques dot the skyline and the call to prayer can be heard five times a day –—there is a strange dichotomy between religion and pop culture. At times they are entirely intertwined, and at other times seem at odds with one another.

First of all, religious symbols and practices are part of daily life in Cairo in a way that continues to surprise me when they pop up in places that I don'’t expect. For example, when I use the gym in my dorm building the caretaker will unroll his prayer rug and perform his daily prayers next to the treadmill. Most taxis, besides being decked out in fuzzy red hearts and sometimes flashing lights, have some sort of religious symbol hanging from the rear-view mirror. Some cab drivers play Qur'’anic music as well, and many have a Qur’'an on the dashboard. The graffiti here is also interesting. The only graffiti that I've seen –that I can understand –says “"Allah."”

Yet at the same time that people are moving through their lives praying five times a day and at every turn uttering words like “alhumdullillah” (praise be to God) and “inshahallah” (God willing), they are watching American and Arabic music videos featuring scantily-clad women performing provocative dances. And, though most women dress very conservatively and a majority wear the headscarf, there are lingerie stores everywhere and window displays in clothing shops where mannequins are wearing clothes that appall even a corrupt and heretic Westerner like myself.

There are, however, levels of religious devotion among Egyptians just like in any religion. The call to prayer sounds out from speakers throughout the city five times a day, yet I have never once seen anyone in a shop or on the street or at the university stop and pray when they hear it. From what I understand, as long as they get five in during the day, they’'re okay. So if you miss one, “mish mushkila” (no problem), they say, you'’ll catch up with it later. And, although alcohol is strictly forbidden by Islam, I have met Egyptians who drink and still consider themselves Muslims. So it is not so strict as one might think at first glance.

There is also a sizable Christian population in Cairo. I teach an English class once a week to Egyptians, and most of my students are Christian. I first figured this out because five of the 10 boys in my class are named “Mina,” which it turns out is the name of an Egyptian saint. As far as I can tell the Christians here have few complaints about being in the minority, especially because they tend to be slightly more affluent, whereas the poorer classes are mostly Muslim.

Being Jewish here has not been a problem at all, but perhaps that is because I haven’'t told anyone that I am Jewish. There is a lot of anger towards Israel, but a few Egyptians that I have spoken to about the subject made the distinction between Zionism and Judaism, which I appreciated. I even had one cab driver tell me that he loves Sharon because Sharon loves his country, –unlike Mubarak. He then proceeded to tell me that he loves people of all religions as long as they are good people. Yet I was shocked when my friends returned from a trip to Dahab, Sinai, and told me that there was a sign in front of their hotel proclaiming that no Jews were allowed to stay there. When I mentioned the sign to my Arabic professor she told me that perhaps it was for security reasons, so I don’'t really know what to think. I will try to write more on this subject in my second letter.

Cairo is such a large and vibrant city that, while Islam is everywhere you turn, its manifestations are as diverse as the city itself. Being here is eye-opening, frustrating, and highly entertaining, and I would recommend that anyone interested in the study of religion and its affect on the culture of a country make a special effort to visit Egypt and experience it for themselves.