Berkley Center

Walking down a Parisian street lined with specialty stores, the smells of each greet me as I pass them: the pungent and rich aroma of the cheese from the fromagerie, the scent of baking bread wafting from the boulangerie, the strong salty odor emanating from the seafood market, and the fresh earthy smell of a produce stand. I’m told that the French traditionally do their grocery shopping at several different stores, buying high-quality food from people who can assure the integrity of their products.

The French are typically very concerned about the source and preparation of their food products, as evidenced by the existence of the appellation d'origine contrôlée, a certification created to guarantee the quality of regional products. In my class at the Sorbonne, Géographie d'alimentation (Geography of Food), we discussed how the French are also known for their unique philosophy when it comes to food.

For example, my host mother denounces the French “paradox,” the idea that French people eat high-fat, rich foods while mysteriously remaining thin. The obesity rates in France are certainly lower than those in the United States, and I have certainly seen far fewer overweight people here than in my home state. Nevertheless, this phenomenon is due less to magical metabolisms than to a difference in alimentary philosophy. This philosophy has morphed slightly in recent years, as the nutritional landscape of France has undergone changes that affect the health and heritage of the French people.

No doubt due to American influence, fast-food chains have been springing up around France in the past few decades. McDonalds and KFC, as well as a few fast-food places of French origin, are scattered throughout Paris amidst the traditional restaurants and markets. According to my host mother, who is a well-known endocrinologist and nutritionist in Paris, fast-food restaurants in France recently hired nutritionists with the intent of improving the quality of their food, only to soon return to the unhealthier products that sell.

And although several of my French teachers in the United States would deny the notion of a French person buying a microwavable meal, the shelves of the grocery stores tell a different story. Full-size grocery stores, although not a recent phenomenon in France, appear to have expanded in recent years to include more prepared foods, highly processed snack items, and fatty frozen meals.

What toll are these changes taking on the health of the French population? Like in the United States, where the “supersizing” trend began many years ago, the occurrences of both type 2 diabetes and heart disease have increased. My host mother, however, has reviewed the data and says that thankfully “it is not as bad as we thought.” There could be several reasons why the French are able to at least partly resist the downward spiral of convenience foods that led America to its obesity epidemic.

First, French tradition calls for an approach to food that does not lend itself to the fast-food culture. My host mother says that the French focus on their food when they eat it, resulting in a slower, more satisfying experience that prevents larger caloric intakes that can result from distractions and on-the-go eating. Second, the French government reacted quickly to this concerning trend. Its swift action is perhaps due to the fact that it saw the fast-food revolution as not only a health hazard, but also an affront to their culture and way of life.

In 2001, the French government enacted the Programme National Nutrition Santé (PNNS), a public health plan aimed at boosting awareness of healthy eating habits. The project has certainly made an impact on the daily lives of Parisians. At the bottom of every food advertisement that I’ve seen on the metro or on the streets of Paris, advice from Manger-Bouger (Eat-Move) is always displayed at the bottom, reminding consumers to enjoy products within the limits of nutritional equilibrium. “Try to avoid snacking between meals.” “Try to eat five fruits and vegetables each day.” “Avoid eating anything too fat, too sugary, or too salty.” Perhaps this is advice we should all keep in mind, especially in wealthy countries where obesity has become nearly as threatening as hunger.