Berkley Center

“In France, cooking is a serious art form and a national sport.”
- Julia Child

When cooking or food comes up, subconsciously, I start to reflect on the contributions French gastronomy and chefs have made to the field. Many words in a cook or chef’s vocabulary come from the French language, along with a wide range of dishes and cooking techniques. Thinking about home and studying in Paris has reminded me of just how much an appreciation of a good meal and the food industry are deeply ingrained in the French culture and identity. France and food are so deeply linked that the French gastronomic meal was nominated for addition to UNESCO’s lists as “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.”

French cuisine encompasses a large number of remarkable dishes that could be considered "French" but that originate from the many kitchens of France's diverse regions. It may even be impossible to say that there is one French cuisine, other than maybe the often indulgent use of butter according to Julia Child; it is more likely that it is a beautifully curated collection of regional cuisines. Duck confit and foie gras are associated with the southwest. Snails cooked in a creamy herb sauce as well as the mouthwatering coq au vin come from the Burgundy region. Piperade, salted cod, and poulet basquaise originate in the Basque country, benefiting from hearty herding, farming, and fishing traditions, as well as trade with Spain. Alsace also benefits from its proximity with Germany, which influenced the region’s choucroute and flammekueche or tarte flambé. Sunny Côte d'Azur is celebrated for its bouillabaisse, pissaladière, and ratatouille. The dishes do not necessarily have to be complex to be savored—a simple baguette with butter, jambon, and fromage is a staple for any Frenchman or Frenchwoman. There are hundreds of regional and local dishes to try, not to mention the thousands of produce varieties, wines and other alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, cheeses, or sweets that are particular to certain areas.

While I’ve been here, I have found that more people are aware of where their food is produced. Not only are certain places in France known for specific products, produce grown in the region, or animals raised in the area, but a branch of the government rigorously protects these often historical or intrinsically cultural varieties. Known as an appellation d'origine contrôlée (or AOC), this certification asserts the quality of the product. It legally recognizes that the edible in question originates in the region or even the farm known for its manufacture. Champagne might have the most famous AOC, regulating the production, quantity, and quality. The defense of champagne’s reputation is so strenuous that any sparkling white wine made elsewhere or by other means cannot be called "champagne" without facing prosecution.

This connection to the land and its products can be witnessed in the aisles of the supermarkets and neighborhood markets in the métropole. There is a willingness I rarely see in stores in the United States to sell "ugly" produce. Bruises, dents, lumps, and odd shapes do not turn shoppers away and do not go to waste. Maybe this wonderful parade of nature’s flaws is a remnant of the generations of farming or herding ancestors that almost everyone’s genealogical tree seems to share, but the example is commendable.

Beyond the plate on the table, the French have integrated gastronomy into other rituals of daily life. The Larousse gastronomique took the tradition of the French Revolution’s encyclopedias to another level by making the subject food in all its forms. Even the well-known author Alexandre Dumas wrote a dictionary on cuisine. Cookbooks by chefs who could be considered their own international brands—such as Alain Ducasse, Jacques Pépin, Daniel Boulud, Pierre Hermé, Dominique Ansel, Christophe Michalak, and many, many more—mix artistry into their ingredients by rethinking classics or conceiving new ones. The high level of respect for the chefs and for the creativity and innovation displayed in the kitchen makes for some very interesting and popular television shows. These cuisiniers and pâtissiers are celebrities; their names can drive crowds to international restaurants, cafés, bistros, or events worldwide.

However, the chefs aren’t the only stars. Annual events such as the Salon de l’Agriculture, the Salon SAVEUR, the Salon international du chocolat, and other expositions bring the many aspects of the food industry to Parisians, displaying all that the country and its overseas territories and departments have to offer. Even other European nations and non-European nations are invited. I highly recommend attending the Salon de l’Agriculture if given the opportunity. The agricultural exposition takes over six conference buildings on the edge of the city. Elementary and middle schools organize field trips that French teenagers still remember to this day as some people from around the country (and world) attend the exposition every year. The buzzing halls can be overwhelming with countless sights, smells, and sounds that will drive your senses even after having exited the Salon pavilion. It is an easy way to sample France’s endless geographical, cultural, and culinary banquet.

A study abroad student could build her year or semester in France just around gastronomy effortlessly. Sometimes it just happens, too, even without consciously deciding—it is that deeply-rooted, it is that essential to belonging to the French community.