Berkley Center

I knew that Thailand was overwhelmingly Buddhist prior to beginning my journey, but I did not know how it would manifest itself in my daily life. I quickly learned that religion, and especially Buddhism, is considered an integral part of everyday Thai society. In fact, the Thai Constitution of 2007 declares that, “The State shall patronise and protect Buddhism as the religion observed by most Thais for a long period of time and other religions, promote good understanding and harmony among followers of all religions as well as encourage the application of religious principles to create virtue and develop the quality of life.”

Upon arrival in Bangkok, one of the first things that struck me was the large number of shrines at practically every intersection. To my Western eyes, a shrine is usually a monument of religious significance. The first few portraits I saw were of a woman, and not knowing what Her Majesty the Queen looks like, I thought that this woman might be the new prime minister, Yingluck Shinawatra.

I had spent the three months prior to my arrival in Thailand without internet and had missed much of the news coverage on the Thai elections. It was not until I saw a tandem portrait that I realized these portraits were of the king and queen. As such, I was not wrong in attributing a religious importance to these shrines because according to the Thai Constitution of 2007, “The King shall be enthroned in a position of revered worship and shall not be violated.”

It is impossible to miss the influence that the monarchy holds over Thai society. As the longest reigning monarch in the world, King Bhumibol is surrounded by myths and legends alike. His subjects, who vividly recall watching the televised meeting of thekKing as he counseled faction leaders toward a peaceful solution to their conflict, will never forget his role in Thailand’s transition to democracy. His subjects show their respect for him by posting portraits of him in their homes; in even the most impoverished homes I visited this year, the walls were decorated with calendars that depicted His Majesty the King.

A shroud of mystery surrounds the king’s benevolent actions, and one of my host families informed me that they believe the king has already reached nirvana, seen the way, and returned to guide the country. The belief that the king himself is a bodhisattva made the day of his eighty-fourth birthday particularly important. This is because of the importance that Buddhism places on the seventh cycle, which the king was entering, and the precedent of Dalai Lamas dying on their birthdays in this cycle. If the king had died on this day, he would forever have been enshrined as a Buddha that had walked amongst the Thai people.

The king did not die on his birthday. This, however, has not diminished his image amongst his subjects. All of the affectionate stories I have heard from villagers were backed up with a two-minute film that is played before every movie showing in Thailand: it shows a montage of the king that accompanies the national anthem. This moving film depicts the king visiting villages, trying his hand at farming, giving gifts to the less fortunate, and pardoning the imprisoned.

The passion that the Thai populace expresses for King Bhumibol is accompanied with a religious fervor, because this king has ascended to a nearly divine position in the hearts and minds of many Thais. A number of my Thai friends do not identify as Buddhist, but they still feel connected to the religion through their devotion to the king.

This link between the monarchy and Buddhism is part of what defines Thai culture. The Thai constitution stipulates that, “The King is a Buddhist and Upholder of religions.” This establishes Buddhism as the national religion, and the king as the protector and emblem of the faith.

Learning about King Bhumibol’s role in Thai history, culture, and politics has been a fascinating lens through which to experience Thai devotion to Buddhism. As the king ages and as social and political questions become more divisive, it will be interesting to see how the link between the monarchy and the Buddhist identity of the nation will influence the course of history in Thailand.