Berkley Center

Before coming to Dublin, I felt rather well travelled from my family vacations through Europe and parts of Asia, and I thought that Dublin would fit nicely into the category of “European capitals” that I had created in my mind. I quickly realized that that classification was too generic to accurately describe Dublin because it has been formed around its complicated history. I was aware of the conventional stereotypes of Ireland, from the green pastures, rocky mountains, and rain to the pubs and shamrocks. Yet, I failed to recognize how influential and present the tension between Ireland and England would be more than ninety years after Ireland gained its independence. Understanding the details of the five rebellions and three wars that took place between 1798 and 1924 demonstrates why Dublin is a city of deep cultural pride that reflects a common attitude across Ireland. From the start of my semester abroad, nothing has more clearly expressed that pride than Gaelic sports.

During my first three weeks at Trinity College I participated in a semester start-up program that allowed me to learn about Irish history and explore famous Dublin sites through field trips. On our excursion to Croke Park, I was astonished by the combination of history and modern cultural heritage that is centered in that stadium. Croke Park is the national stadium of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) and is located near the city center of Dublin. There are thirty-two counties in Ireland that compete in four Gaelic sports: Gaelic football, hurling, ladies’ Gaelic football, and camogie. These sports are extremely fast-paced, demand teamwork and precision, and combine techniques of soccer, American football, baseball, field hockey, lacrosse, and many other sports. Croke Park is a theater to more than just athletic excellence, though; it is also embroiled in the political violence of Irish history.

In 1920, during the Irish War of Independence, Croke Park was the site of Bloody Sunday. Ireland was under the control of the British Crown and had failed in three rebellions to reject British rule. The night before a match between Dublin and Tipperary, several British soldiers had been killed, so in retaliation, the British forces planned a “search” of Croke Park that would transpire during the match. They allegedly planned to search the crowd for illegal gun possession, but instead, they broke into the stadium just after the start of the match and began firing, killing fourteen people. One victim was a member of the Tipperary team for whom a grandstand at the stadium is now named to honor him and the history. This attack on innocent civilians undoubtedly affected Irish sentiment against the British Empire.

Consequently, Croke Park feeds off not only its historical significance, but also its cultural pride that comes from dynamic competition. What accentuates that pride and differentiates Gaelic sports from American sports most is that the players are amateurs. Because they are not paid, they represent their own community and compete for reasons other than money and fame. They must practice amidst other commitments, such as work or education, and as a result they seem more relatable than the iconic stars of American athletics. So, each Sunday when pubs around the city don multi-colored balloons and flags in support of the two teams competing, it is easy to get involved in the culture that saturates each room. It is not just a competition, but it is a celebration of Ireland that has immersed me in a truly Irish tradition that is much more complex than its façade of entertainment.