Berkley Center

Coming to Spain three weeks ago, I must admit that I held certain preconceived notions about post-Franco culture and religion here. Many of these ideas were planted by Spanish professors and classes in which the democratic transition of was examined. Living here with a Spanish family and traveling to historical Spanish monuments has reinforced some of these ideas and brought to light some new questions for me. Religion has undoubtedly played a large role in defining and providing an identity to Spaniards historically, politically, and socially. This process plays out in some expected ways and also in some rather surprising ones.

Traveling throughout or even strolling through Salamanca, one can immediately see the historical importance of religion. In Trujillo and Caceres, towns which sat on the border of the Christian and Arabic territories, it is immediately apparent that the architecture, the fortresses, and the castles were all created in defense of Christianity. These physical manifestations, which are now protected historical monuments, remain an important part of the political history of reminding all who visit that this nation is deeply grounded in a Catholic identity. Obviously, the eventual expulsion of the Arabic Moors and Jews reinforced and confirmed the country'’s Catholicism. The expulsion sent the clear message that Jews and Muslims were foreigners, invaders, and usurpers, whereas the true Spaniards are Catholic, linking Spanish identity to Catholicism in a lasting way. A later manifestation of this would be El Escorial, the grand palace and monastery of King Felipe II. As my art history professor has said, the basilica of El Escorial is a grand masterpiece of the Counter Reformation. In this way, even throughout the centuries retained is religious identity as Christian and, perhaps more importantly, as a Catholic stronghold in times of change. These expressions of Spanish Catholicism demonstrate the importance of Christianity as a driving political force and a defining characteristic of Spanish identity.

Under the Franco regime, the identity of Spanish as Catholic became even more important and apparent as Franco fought, with the support of the Catholic Church, to restore tradition. Franco’'s dictatorship meant that to be a loyal Spaniard you must unequivocally be Catholic, even if only superficially. Hence, society and culture placed new value on the appearances of religiosity, not just on the historical importance of Catholicism in defining and shaping the Iberian Peninsula politically.

My host family and the older generation in Spain have a certain reluctance when it comes to discussing the Franco years. Nevertheless, their wariness towards politics today along with their seemingly contradictory sentiments of obligation towards voting is telling of the lasting impact of those hard years. While they may be circumspect towards the still new and evolving political process here, the right, privilege, and obligation to vote is held as sacred. The political consequences of the right-wing dictatorship are much easier to discover and observe than the religious ones, yet listening closely can unearth some surprising revelations.

When I asked my host family what religion they were, the immediate and simultaneous answer was Catholic. My friends in Salamanca have told me the same. While my family quickly explained that they were not practicing Catholics (like many others), other friends live with strict and traditional types who attend Mass weekly. There was not the expected reluctance or even resentment when the non-practicing or more liberal Spaniards identified their religion. In a way, they seemed to be identifying themselves through their religion. By telling me they were Catholic, they were telling me that they were Spaniards and all that entails: the political struggles, the social strife, and the historical molding. Some of that history may make them cautious or distrustful, while some of it may make them proud and confident, yet their history is one deeply intertwined and influenced by religion. By acknowledging their Catholicism, they, in a way, recognize their own history and identity as a people through good and bad.