Berkley Center

Many Islamic scholars argue that Islam cannot be sufficiently described by the word religion. Islam is more than a religion; it is a way of life. Over the past two months in Jordan, I have definitely been exposed to this way of life and have had the privilege of participating in many of its various aspects, such as the holy month of Ramadan.

Upon arrival to Jordan we immediately received a Ramadan survival kit, which contained information about the holy month of Ramadan, various snacks, and water to get us through the days of fasting. Ramadan had started about a week prior to our arrival and during this month, nearly all restaurants are closed from sunrise to sunset. Not only is it difficult to find food during the day, but it is actually illegal to eat or drink in public, and to buy and sell alcohol. An American man attempted to buy alcohol in Amman during Ramadan. He was arrested by the police and put in jail until the end of Ramadan. The police informed him that he was put in jail for his own sake so that he would not be tempted again to violate God's will during Ramadan. So even if you are not Muslim in Jordan, it is pretty much unavoidable to experience the Islamic way of life.

After our first week of orientation, we moved in with our host families. Living with host families offers the students in our program a true glimpse into the local culture and way of life. To my surprise I was placed with a young Catholic couple. In a country that is 98 percent Muslim, it had never occurred to me that I could be living with anything other than a Muslim family. I grew up Catholic in the United States, but living with a Catholic family as such a minority has given me a new perspective on Catholicism and religion as a whole. Similar to Islam in Jordan, Catholicism is more of a way of life than a religion. Pictures of Jesus are found in every room of the house, and my family reads the Bible every night before bed.

Even though Catholicism is my host family's way of life, Islam still has a great impact on their lives. Every morning during Ramadan, a man came around the neighborhood banging on a drum at 4:00 a.m. to wake everyone up for sohor (the meal during Ramadan eaten before sunrise). We hear the call to prayer five times a day from the nearby mosque. We do not eat pork, and the 200 percent tax placed on alcohol applies to all people, not just Muslims. Many of the most common phrases in the Arabic language refer to Allah, thanking him or putting one's fate in his hands. The culture of Islam penetrates every aspect of society, and Muslim or not, Islam has a profound impact on all people's lives. This constant presence of Islam has fostered a feeling of animosity among many people in the Christian community in Jordan. I have spoken to many Christians here who have told me that all Muslims are bad people and to avoid speaking to Muslims. They become frustrated when they are confined to eating in their homes during Ramadan and when they cannot travel on Fridays because it is the Islamic day of worship and everything has shut down. Even though this frustration exists, Jordan maintains its relative stability through an unspoken and resigned peace, a rarity in the greater Middle East.

One thing that I have found especially interesting is the diversity of practices within Islam. Many of the other American students are living with Muslim families and through conversations with them, I have had a glimpse into the lives of many Muslim families in Amman. Some of these families fasted during Ramadan and others did not. But even those who were not fasting did not eat in public. Some women wear hijab and others do not. Some Muslims consume alcohol while others do not. Some stop whatever they are doing to pray five times a day, while others just go to the mosque on Fridays only to pray in public and keep up appearances. Some Muslims still believe in honor killings. Jordan has one of the highest rates of honor killings in the world, and if a murder can be proved to be an honor killing, then the punishment is just three months in prison. Even though this country is 98 percent Muslim, the diversity within Islam reflects the diversity of the lifestyles and beliefs of the people in Jordan.