From the ubiquitous call to prayer and celebratory car horns, to the more intrusive taxi cab interrogations, one immediately recognizes that religion flows through the heart of Egypt just like the Nile river. Both Islam and Christianity, from Alexandria to Aswan, manifest themselves in a myriad of ways, demonstrating the all-encompassing role of faith in Egyptian society.
In this country, the significance of one's occupation and wealth pale in comparison to the importance of one's religious identity. After the first few encounters with this reality one begins to understand that questions, which aim to determine one’'s faith and marital status, are no more aggressive or obscure to an Egyptian than, "What is your name?" Identifying this cultural phenomenon, one can take advantage of these probing questions, absorbing every conversation with a cab driver, shopkeeper, or Egyptian friend in order to elucidate one’'s understanding of the role of religion in the hearts and minds of Egyptians. My “adoption” by a Muslim family and encounter with a group of Coptic Christians from Luxor may appear to be uncommonly fortunate occurrences. However, I wish, perhaps naively, to believe that these experiences are small representations of Egyptians as a whole.
On my second night in Egypt I received an invitation to break the fast (iftar) with my friend Galal, an American-Egyptian spending Ramadan with his family in Cairo. Both the family's Arab hospitality and the mounds of delicious food instantaneously overwhelmed my senses, and each subsequent evening in this home leaves me in a similar, ecstatic state. Receiving new insight into the dietary habits, daily customs, and piety of a traditional Arab Muslim family, I relish each opportunity to visit my new home. While I chat with my family about their faith, ignorantly eat mysterious animal organs, sip tea, and watch soccer matches, I continuously observe both the generosity of my family and the ubiquitous presence of Islam. Returning to “my home” each week, I find my family eager to hear about my adventures and answer any questions I may have about their faith or beloved country. The hospitality and tolerance of this family continuously eradicates any negative perceptions I hold regarding Islam or Egypt, despite a few scarring experiences eating cow brain, knee, and tail.
Due to extenuating circumstances, my friends and I embarked on an evening train from Luxor to Cairo, without tickets. We soon realized our 50 LE ($9.50) sheets of paper, purchased on board the second class car, were merely pieces of parchment. Succeeding in losing my friends and “ticket,” I found myself alone, with a dead cell phone, roaming cabins in search of a free seat. A few hours later, still in my vagabond state, I hopelessly continued to search for my missing friends, repeatedly plopping down in "empty" seats only to find their owners returning from a cigarette break. Relocating for the tenth time, I sat across the aisle from a man, adorning a traditional Coptic tattoo on his forearm. He clearly recognized the bags under my eyes and solemn expression on my face because he began to ask the awkward foreign girl questions. Despite the obvious effects of exhaustion on my linguistic abilities, I succeeded in conveying the hopelessness of my situation. Immediately, the man insisted I use his cell phone. Greeted by "Jesus Loves You" as the phone powered up, I was reminded once more of the omnipresence of religion as I felt a tinge of hopefulness for the first time in hours. Thanking him profusely for his kindness, I began to depart, when the man interjected and motioned towards his seat. For the remainder of the trip, this man sacrificed his comfort for that of a stranger. Not only did his arm and cell phone bear witness to his faith, but his actions truly and impressively typified his religious convictions.
While one assuredly encounters the taxi driver who attempts to convert his passengers and the man who claims to be a “true Christian” as he overcharges for baklava, one more regularly encounters those who give up their seats on overnight trains and welcome you into their family. It has been my experience that Egyptians fervently embrace their religious identities, for the most part, aiming to live their faith--not merely decorating their cars with symbols, but truly acting as model believers. Call me naively optimistic or ignorant. However, my time in Egypt allows me to illustrate no other reality.
Michelle Saks graduated from Georgetown College with an Arabic and government double major. Originally from Kinnelon, New Jersey, Michelle spent the 2010/2011 academic year in Cairo, Egypt, where she wrote for the Junior Year Abroad Network.
