The Land of Smiles and Yellow Robes

By: Mary Lim

October 25, 2011

Thailand presents quite a unique opportunity in terms of religion. Today, more than 90 percent of the population considers itself Buddhist, and it continues to be a driving force in the country, whether it is portrayed through monks casually walking in the street or small shrines subtly set up in a village home.

For the two months I’ve spent in Northeast Thailand so far, the pervasive influence of Buddhism has been a learning experience in almost every place I go. As soon as we landed in Bangkok, the first tourist destination we were taken to was the Royal Palace. But it wasn’t the palace that amazed us; it was the surrounding temples that filled me with an appreciation for its aesthetic splendor. While observing Thais as they bowed to the Buddha and taking pictures of the temples’ different aesthetic styles (Buddhism was my first exposure of Thai culture as an intermingling of Chinese, Lao, and Cambodian influence), I was on my way to truly understanding what it meant to be Thai.

Buddhism has always been a way for both the people and the government to find familiarity and common ground. Even before the national definition of a “Thai” citizen was created in the early twentieth century to encompass all the various other ethnicities and cultures, Buddhism was already the unifying factor of Thai culture.

But with the effects of modernization and globalization, I’ve questioned whether Buddhism is more a religion or culture in modern Thailand and how my personal values coincide or clash with Buddhist values. While it is easy to see that Buddhism is such an integral part of Thai culture, politics, and history, I’ve yet to completely understand how it has adapted to modernity and the younger generation.

At almost every homestay, I’ve had the opportunity to visit temples, offer food to monks, and watch my host parents pray in sincerity while paying respect to the Buddha. In one village that was facing land and deforestation conflict, we walked through a forest of trees that had been ordained by villagers with the same well-known yellow cloth monks traditionally wear. The villagers had made the trees sacred monks of the forest, thus commanding the respect of state officials and private investors alike.

On the other hand, when I accompanied my roommate and her friend to Ubon Ratchathani during one of my vacation days, I was surprised to find that a day would be dedicated to traveling to nine different temples to gain good luck and merit. On a normal day, I rarely saw any other indications that my roommate and her peers were Buddhist—it rarely came up in interactions or conversations.

So I wondered how much of this endeavor was because of their cultural upbringing or because Buddhism was really a religion they were personally invested in. In turn, this has led me to question whether Christianity was really my religion or something I just grew up with. I know some people back home who practice religion because it’s culturally significant to them, not always because it is a personal commitment, but because it provides that connection to family and community. Unfortunately, I can rarely find time with Sunday classes and village homestays much less find other Christians or English church services. But I’ve happily taken advantage of the chance to learn how Buddhism has played a role in shaping a country’s past and future and I hope that it gives me a clearer understanding and appreciation of religion in my own home country.

Especially in Thailand, religion can be such a driving force when appealed to in politics or society—it appeals to our sense of connection with something greater and that has been a part of American history and culture as well. Ironically, I’ve realized that the lack of opportunities to practice my own religion here has only strengthened my desire to grow in my own faith and to search for that sense of community in a whole new environment.

I’ve been presented with a unique opportunity to learn about the universal significance of religion in society through the eyes of a foreigner, and this newfound perspective and discovery is something that will only drive me towards stronger faith.

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