Berkley Center

Viva la patria! Viva la Argentina!—Long live the homeland! Long live Argentina!

As I approached Plaza de Mayo on Saturday I was met with shouts of this nature as Argentines gathered to celebrate the country’s independence. The 25 of May holiday commemorates the May Revolution in which the Spanish viceroy was removed and local government established, beginning Argentina’s fight for independence. To celebrate, the city flocks to Plaza de Mayo, home to all historical political movements. Thousands of people came to see live music, fireworks, the presidential speech, and participate in cultural activities. I was lucky enough to arrive in time to hear Cuban musician Silvio Rodríguez, who was followed by others from Brazil, Uruguay, Venezuela, Mexico, and Argentina. The crowd was a sea of the national blue and white, proudly waving flags, and singing the national anthem. Balloons floated overhead, and every building in sight was decorated with the Argentine colors. The energy in the crowd was amazing as people of all ages came out to join in. Vendors sold flags, pins, t-shirts, and local food, including empanadas and pan relleno. It was an incredible demonstration of national pride and a great example of the overwhelmingly passionate Argentine culture.

The day also marked 10 years of Kirchner rule in Argentina, adding some controversy to the event. Nestor Kirchner was head of state from 2003 to 2007, succeeded by his wife Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner. Cristina’s supporters held signs commemorating “the victorious decade” and listing achievements such as free soccer, voting age to 16, democratization of the judicial branch, and other major reforms. However, other political parties represented opposition with signs and banners calling for change. I was struck by the political dynamic that dominated the independence celebration. The cathedral was covered in scaffolding to hang banners of different political parties and leaders. Groups marched around the plaza with signs for the Justicialist Party, Republican Proposal, Miles, Communist Party, and many more. Furthermore, there was an evident divide between those coming out to support Cristina and the decade of Kirchner rule versus those who came despite that aspect of the day.

I also happened to stumble upon another great significance for May 25—the founding of the popular soccer club, River Plate. As I was walking through 3 de Febrero park in Buenos Aires Saturday morning I came across a parade of thousands of River Plate fans wearing jerseys, marching with banners, setting of red and white smoke, and climbing on top of statues to wave their flags. Since living in Buenos Aires, I’ve grown accustomed to seeing protests and demonstrations daily. However, this enormous, traffic-stopping spectacle nearly rivaled the independence celebrations. It is another perfect example of Argentine passion, especially when it comes to soccer.

The 25 of May holiday is right in the middle of my semester in Buenos Aires. As most other students are winding down and getting ready to come home, I’m still in mid-terms. Luckily, I have enough time left to keep exploring the city, working on my Spanish, traveling, and hopefully making it to another soccer game!