A Land of Many Faces

By: Tiffany Lachhonna

July 2, 2014

Among all of the things that have shocked and amazed me about this country, the sheer diversity of peoples, their histories, and their sociocultural richness region-to-region have inarguably been the most pleasing surprises. Prior to arriving I knew about as much as the average American knew about Argentina, probably a bit more having gathered narratives from the various friends who have visited or lived some part of their lives here. However, now having visited both the Andean north and European-influenced south, my preconceptions seem laughably naive in comparison to just how rich and complex the lands—and especially the people—of this country are. Argentina’s geographical placement and its sheer length have made for a spectacular variety of the subcultures encountered in this South American gem. It is evident how each region's ethnic group and immigrant populations have accommodated themselves within their region, and it is reflected in their distinct subcultures. The stark difference in the ethnic compositions of northern and southern Argentines has as much to do with their differing histories as it has to do with the different environments themselves.

This past weekend, I returned from a trip to the Andean northwest region of Argentina, namely the provinces of Salta and Jujuy. The air is hot and dry and the environment includes deserts where 15 foot cactuses cover its more barren mountainous landscape. The indigenous groups of native South Americans make up the majority of the population, and their cultures are remarkably well preserved. Many wear traditional Andean fashions made by hand, and alimentation consists of mostly whatever is native to the lands: potatoes, corn, and quinoa are all important staples. I noted that here many aspects of pre-colonial life still thrive, be it the highly complex method of weaving alpaca hairs into intricate indigenous patterns (both the method and patterns are parts of the honored familial traditions passed down to new generations) to the way food is prepared slowly and always eaten with the whole family. Interestingly enough, remnants of colonial occupation—large white-washed, tiled Spanish churches and government buildings—sit right alongside the simpler adobe houses of the indigenous populations, but do so in a seemingly peaceful way. Perhaps the tension between these various periods in history have been calmed by the tourism industry, which brings a large deal of wealth to the modest economic region through sales of indigenous artisanal goods and a great deal to the wine industry—whose fertile vineyards were created by the early Spanish settlers. I returned from Salta and Jujuy feeling rejuvenated by the slow and simple life of the north.

Before the Andean northwest, I experienced a different but similarly enjoyable cultural environment to the south: the steep snowy plains of southern Argentina. Patagonia, much like Salta and Jujuy, enjoys a slower, simpler lifestyle, but the people and their histories have many different stories. Patagonia is famous for having been a haven to European pioneers of various countries who sought to escape the demands of European rule or to those simply seeking out a simpler independent lifestyle. Although the majority of people here are a mix of Europeans ancestries, indigenous populations were spread throughout—namely the Mapuche people, who during the Araucanization of Patagonia, expanded their customs, languages, and traditions throughout the region in the early nineteenth century. Following this period however, more Europeans began to immigrate as news traveled quickly of growing European settlements in successful and fertile regions of southern Argentina. Now the Mapuche are a minority amongst the many Europeans roots planted in southern Patagonia. I visited Calafate and Chalten, both of which were reminiscent of northern European towns, with a multitude of Swiss-inspired architecture; long pointed roofs and short walls and the people themselves share the physical characteristics of mixed European ancestry. Although the historical and ethnic roots of these two regions differ in innumerable ways, there's a similarity in the relaxed, friendly hospitality that these less populated regions share. It is interesting to note how places that came into existence in such different ways can exude some similarly charming vibes.

Now back in Buenos Aires and approaching final exams and therein the end of my time abroad, I hoped this post could detail just how varying the sociocultural landscapes of Argentina are. However I realize that no amount of detail could do this level of diversity due justice. All I can say is that I feel incredibly grateful to have experienced it and undoubtedly all the better for it.

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