Jennifer Dixon On History and Religion in Modern Glasgow

By: Jennifer Dixon

October 20, 2009

From the day I first arrived at the University of Glasgow, I have been amazed at the ways in which the past and the present seem so easily fused throughout Scotland's modern day metropolis. A city known today for its shopping and nightlife, Glasgow is filled with all the luxuries of the modern world. Yet, remnants remain of a history that stretches all the way back to a founding in the sixth century. It all began when Saint Mungo, a Christian missionary, stopped upon the banks of the River Clyde, founding a small church at the site of today's medieval Church of Scotland Cathedral. Through preaching and by example, Saint Mungo converted many of the region's natives and built a city around his church that eventually became one of the largest and wealthiest in all the Kingdom of Scotland. Over the years, Glasgow grew and quickly became recognized for its unique position as a center for trade and industry in Scotland, leading Pope Nicholas V to charter the University of Glasgow (1451 CE), creating what is today the fourth oldest surviving university in the English-speaking world.

A quick walk in and around campus today reveals buildings that stand hundreds of years old, with spires that reach to the sky and a stately medieval façade that seems oddly reminiscent of our beloved Healy, yet amidst this history, the life of the modern world is blended. Upon first entering the rather impressive university gates, I was taken aback not only by the way in which the past and present coexist in the physical buildings, but also by the strange, yet fascinating way that both were present in the culture on campus. Up and down University Avenue, different nightclubs had tents advertising their specials for ‘freshers’, while within the gates, the Christian Union grilled burgers for all new students, encouraging them to find a place for their faith in the “traditions of this (historically) Christian university.” Just down the road, the Catholic Chaplaincy welcomed new international students with open arms, inviting them to teatime as an introduction to English/Scottish culture. From day one, everyone seemed to embrace the culture and history of this university.

Yet, despite the seemingly seamless manner in which the past and the present were molded together throughout the city and culture of Glasgow, I slowly began to discover that the remnants of the past which had so dazzled me upon arrival were merely that for many of the Scottish people—just remnants. Upon investigation, I discovered that both the Christian Union and the Catholic Chaplaincy are run almost entirely by international students. Considering the history of Glasgow and the emphasis on tradition in welcoming new students, I was immensely surprised to discover that the traditions that seemed to be a part of Glasgow Uni were rather more like impressions from without than traditions from within. These groups put on ceilidhs (traditional Scottish dancing) for many of their social events, and yet the only Scotsmen present were those demonstrating the dances.

After walking around Glasgow and traveling throughout Scotland for several weeks, I have slowly begun to discover the Scottish identity that I hoped to find was one that for the most part was upheld for tourists. In my "Scottish Literature" class, Professor Carruthers emphasized the ways in which Romantic notions of the Highlands and Scottish history are ideas that were mostly created by poets and writers. “The real Scotland,” he always says with such vigor, “is a harsh place.” Sure, if you look on the surface, there are beautiful cathedrals and a breathtaking landscape, but sometimes you need to walk into the cathedral to see the real picture.

I recently discovered this on a trip to Tobermory on the Isle of Mull. The town is small, placed on a picturesque harbor, with brightly colored shops dotting the road on either side of what seems to be a beautiful church. A quick step inside, though, quickly changed my perspective as I discovered a Spar, one of Scotland's many grocery chains. The stained glass was boarded over, and there was a cash register where the altar used to be. For me, this is the best image of how the Scottish people appear to blend the past and the present. What I had originally thought was an equal blend seems now to be more of a glossing over. The religious history is pulled out for tourists, while Scotsmen tend to prefer the modern, more “useful” aspects of their culture.

Hoya at Heart,

Jenny

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