Berkley Center

As I described in my previous letter, of all the German states, Bayern is considered to be the most religious in Germany. This heightened religious atmosphere is clearly demonstrated in Bayern’'s strict observance of certain religious holidays and traditions. This cultural difference is especially noticeable at certain times of the year, but I have also been reminded of it on a weekly basis; every Sunday, all stores are closed the entire day—an aspect of German life I did not think would be so inconvenient until I experienced it myself. Yet over the past few months, the religiousness of Bayern has been particularly acute in light of recent holidays.

The first example that significantly portrayed this difference was Christmas – Christmastime in Munich is like nothing I have known in the United States. For the entire month of December, Marienplatz—the main town square in Munich—was covered with stands selling everything from glühwein (a type of mulled wine) to Christmas ornaments and nutcrackers. There were many other Christmas markets around Munich at the time, but only the one in Marienplatz featured the largest Christmas tree I have ever seen. Everywhere you went in Munich that month screamed of Christmas spirit, but in a more traditional way than in the United , in a sense that is hard to describe, but not unexpected. There was also no hint at any other religion’s holiday at that time of year, such as Hanukkah; again, this was a difference that did not come as a great surprise, but it made me realize how I have become used to the balance—unequal as it is—between the two that we have in the United States. Overall there were much more cultural and religious, rather than capitalistic, undertones to Christmas in Munich than I have previously experienced, which of course made it seems somehow more genuine;– for instance, I have never before been greeted with “"Happy Advent!”" Yet here in Munich, I was greeted this way by random shopkeepers and the like throughout December.

Another large religious celebration that I have experienced in Munich is Carnival, during which time Marienplatz was again transformed into a festival for over a week, complete with bandstand, temporary tourist shops, and costume parades. You could hardly go into this part of town without being sprayed with confetti from some random passerby on the street. The most famous Carnival celebration, however, takes place in Cologne, a city in western Germany. The main day of celebration in the German Karneval (or Fasching in Bayerisch, the German dialect of Bayern) is Rosenmontag, which means “running Monday” and takes place on the Monday before Ash Wednesday. Schools are closed in most German states that Monday and Tuesday, as well as most stores.

Overall, religious holidays play a much greater role in Munich than I have personally experienced in the United States. Everyday life is completely affected:– stores are closed, people are off from work, the city is oftentimes transformed,– and people thus have more time to celebrate and actively take part in the holiday season.