Religious Intersectionality in Dar Es Salaam

By: Chinmayee Venkatraman

February 5, 2015

“Everything happens for a reason.”

This epigram, taught in my "Problem of God" class as the Harmony Theodicy, speaks directly to my study abroad journey. As an International Health major, I was supposed to complete my internship abroad in northern Ghana last fall. Plane tickets were purchased, visas were procured, and the excitement was palpable. However, one week before classes started, my program was suspended due to inadequate Ebola containment efforts in the region. In the hours following the official decision as my mom comforted me, she reminded me that, even in this moment of deep frustration and disappointment, everything happens for a reason. My understanding of this theodicy is tied to my faith tradition, and it has helped me to accept the situation and move forward positively. This semester, I am abroad in Dar es Salaam, the largest city in Tanzania.

According to the World Bank, the East African nation of Tanzania ranks as a low income country with a GDP per capita of $695 and a population of 49.25 million. The wealth of the country does not appear to be distributed equally though, as Dar es Salaam is significantly more urban than other parts of the country. Its health indicators are reflective of the wealth, infrastructure, and resources found in Dar as well. Tanzania’s population is roughly 35 percent Muslim, 30 percent Christian, and 35 percent traditional beliefs. In the 2.5 weeks I have been here, I have witnessed elements of Islam and Christianity as well as my own religion, Hinduism.

My first Sunday here, as I sat on the patterned rug in our apartment writing emails, a gentle breeze accompanied the sunlight coming through the screened balcony. Birds chirped in the cloudless sky and cars drove by, using their horns sparingly, on the road below. However, the most prominent sounds were songs sung over a loudspeaker from a church service two blocks away. The Swahili songs of praise were harmonized with the occasional “Hallelujah!” and served as a representation of Christianity in Tanzania. The Christian population in Tanzania includes Roman Catholic, Methodist, Lutheran, and Baptist sects.

Each morning, as the sun breaks the darkness of the previous night, I can hear the Muslim call to prayer from my room. The chanting in Arabic, signifying one of the five daily prayer times, is a representation of Islam in Tanzania. The majority of the Muslims are Sunni, but Shi'ite Muslims live in Tanzania as well. Within the latter population, there exists a community called Ismailism, who revere and practice under their spiritual leader, the Aga Khan. References to the Aga Khan can be found in a large event space near my apartment (Aga Khan Diamond Jubilee Hall) and in a hospital near my internship office (Aga Khan Hospital), among others.

In addition to being Hindu, my family follows the spiritual guidance of Sri Sathya Sai Baba as well. With millions of devotees worldwide, he preaches the five human values that you should strive to live in accordance with. These core principles are truth, love, peace, right action, and nonviolence. Before leaving the United States, I had looked up information on my prayer group in Tanzania and had found a Facebook page for the Sai Center in Dar—whose last post was in early 2013. In any case, I had hoped to find it when I got here, and found it in quite an unexpected way. We were walking past a watch store, when I saw a picture inside and went in to ask if the owner was a devotee. I got some information on the location of the Sai Center and actually drove past it on the way back to our apartment. It is a five-minute walk from my apartment (which is closer than the center in DC or even at home in Dallas!) and is a nice and familiar community of which to be a part. The accompanying picture is the altar at the Dar center.

I have been here for less than three weeks, and feel fortunate to have had experiences with multiple faith traditions thus far. I look forward to witnessing people from different faiths continue to peacefully coexist, while maintaining the depth and breadth of their traditions. As a senior, I hope to contribute a unique perspective to the study abroad network and, who knows—part of staying back last semester might have been to learn and be a part of this neat experience. All I know is that everything happens for a reason.

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