The first time I walked down Nørrobrogade, one of the longest and most popular streets in Copenhagen, I figured that the park I had passed was just that—a park. I came to this conclusion while watching local couples, young children, and tourists smile as they made their way towards the entrance of the lush, green space. It was not until a week or two later that I learned that I had walked by Assistens Cemetery, the burial place of some of the most famous Danes in modern history, including Hans Christian Andersen and Niels Bohr.
I briefly read about Assistens Cemetery before my semester abroad had even started while researching tourist attractions in Copenhagen. I remember thinking how odd it was that a burial place was ranked highly on several tourist websites, but I justified it by the fact that many well-known people are laid to rest there. I figured that the tourists who visited were quick to give the cemetery five stars on TripAdvisor and VisitCopenhagen because of their affinity for whomever’s grave they had come to see.
When I learned that what I had thought to be a park was really Assistens Cemetery, I knew I had to see for myself why so many seemingly happy locals were visiting a place of mourning. The cemetery is centrally located, so it was an easy trip to make on a Friday afternoon.
One of the first graves I saw was of a woman who was buried only a few years ago. I was surprised; it appeared that while Assistens Cemetery is the final resting place of some of the most famous Danes, it is also where average locals are buried. I was also taken aback by the visitors I saw at Assistens Cemetery. There were dog walkers, young people lounging in the glass, and old friends catching up on the benches. Most of the gravestones had a unique shape, and they were all surrounded by trees, bushes, and statues. If it weren’t for the hundreds of gravestones, I would have once again thought that I was in a public park.
Upon reflection, it seems to me that Assistens Cemetery exemplifies the Law of Jante, the ten “rules” that many believe govern Danish society. The Law of Jante is not actually law, but it is regarded as a common way of thinking among the Danish people. In its most simple interpretation, the Law of Jante emphasizes the collective over the individual. It also stresses equality, as evidenced by the fourth rule: “You shall not imagine that you are any better than us.” While many interpret the Law of Jante to be a negative concept that criticizes individual success, it can also be understood in a more positive way. In my Danish Language and Culture class, we read a piece by Jørgen Carlsen, who discusses the Law of Jante in his book Learning in Denmark. He writes, “Danes in general do not regard geniuses as superhuman, or even people in some way higher up the ladder. However outstanding a person may prove to be, they are neither more nor less than just another fellow human being; the Danish mentality tends towards seeking likenesses rather than differences.”
Assistens Cemetery typifies this line of Danish thought. Burying everyday Danes in the same resting place as notable figures such as Hans Christian Andersen and Niels Bohr emphasizes the common humanity amongst all people. Moreover, allowing Assistens Cemetery to serve a similar function as a public park solidifies the connection between all Danes, living and dead.
While at first surprised by its high rating on tourist websites, I understand why so many people are enchanted by Assistens Cemetery. While still a place of mourning, the burial place evokes feelings of community for all those who walk through it.