Every morning Paris wakes up to long lines outside cafés. One sunny morning I joined in this crowd, sitting outside with a French novel in one hand and an espresso in the other. Just like that, I joined a tradition of intellectuals, such as F. Scott Fitzgerald and Jean-Paul Sartre, squeezed together over Parisian coffee tables as they debated the human condition. As I sipped away, I began to realize the charm of the cafés. The coffee sharpened my mind, but the cup that fit into the palm of my hand forced me to savour each moment that passed by. I started paying closer attention to each word on the page, pondering their deeper meanings. I could easily imagine those intellectuals leaning across the tiny tables as they talked. They would have had to not only express themselves clearly, but more importantly, to listen both with their ears and their pensive minds. Thus coffee in France is not just a way to wake up, but also a lifestyle that cultivates contemplation both towards others and oneself.
For lunch, most just grab a baguette sandwich. But on Sundays in Strasbourg, one of the main squares is packed with stalls showing off fresh produce and local delicacies. When I visited, I was hosted by my local friend who I had met when she was on exchange at Georgetown. She led the way through the market, picking out local goods, from the smoked charcuterie of the Alsace region to the radishes that are staples of every French picnic. And that is exactly what we did. Blanket in hand and our newly bought foods in the other, we found a spot in a park and started munching. She had promised to take care of everything if I was ever to visit her, and she certainly kept her word. Even though we had not contacted each other for nearly a year, she represented the best of French hospitality. Although French people are considered cold, especially to strangers, their hearts warm immediately once you enter their friend circle. Just like with the picnic foods that made our taste buds dance, French people have no need to hide their gifts and their faults from who they call their friends: what you see is what you get.
And what better place to experience the celebrated French dinner cuisine than the gastronomic capital of France: Lyon. As my friend and I sat at a table outside of a classic Lyonnais bouchon-style restaurant, the waiter strode over and rattled off the specials of the day: quenelles, salad Lyonnaise, tarte praline…each dish celebrated the ingredients and recipes that have been cultivated in the region, and that region only, for generations. The French have a name for this idea: terroir. It is the belief that only the specific land and harvesting methods in the region itself can produce the perfect product. Anything else falls short. This philosophy may seem arrogant, but from another perspective, terroir represents a contract between humans and the environment. The earth produces these delicacies, but in return, humans must take care of these lands because they are irreplaceable. Everything, and everyone, has a special gift to offer. As with coffee and picnics in France, terroir is not just a French culinary technique, but also a French way of life.
But no discussion about French food, or even the French lifestyle, would be complete without talking about wine. At outdoor bars, the French clink glasses of beer, whisky, and above all, wine, as they fill the air with laughter. In France, people understand how to enjoy the finer things in life, especially the importance of cultivating friendships. Because at the end of the day, to quote the American poet Maya Angelou, “People will forget what you’ve said or what you’ve done, but no one will forget how you made them feel.” So I propose a toast: here’s to all the bonds forged over the words “on prend un verre” (“let’s grab a drink”). And here’s to France, where each meal reminds you that each individual has their own story, and every story deserves not just respect, but more importantly, seeing it by stepping in the storyteller’s shoes. As the French say: Salut!
Leo Luo graduated from Georgetown University's School of Foreign Service in 2017 with a major in science, technology, and international affairs. Leo studied at Sciences Po Paris during the spring 2016 semester, where he improved his French, blogged for the Junior Year Abroad Network, and learned about the European way of life through both academics and sightseeing.
