After studying religion and culture for two years as a theology major and working in the Office of Campus Ministry, I’ve grown to appreciate the American understanding of religious freedom. Religion, for many, is a marker of identity rather than a distinguishing feature. I recognize that this isn’t true of all people. Religious freedom, and safety, has limits. Being free to practice religion doesn’t protect from religious-based hate crimes stemming from Islamophobia and anti-Semitism. Even at Georgetown, which prides itself on the Jesuit values of interreligious understanding and community in diversity, students can find their religious identity under threat; look at the swastikas found on Georgetown’s main campus last week.
Yet Georgetown does much to provide students a chance to learn from a diverse group of religious leaders. I’m on a first-name basis with many of the chaplains and chaplains-in-residence on campus. I’ve had discussions with these faith leaders about the role of religion in society and culture, touching upon topics as difficult as the Israel-Palestine conflict to lighter topics such as Nigerian-Indian weddings in London. While I don’t believe these conversations and experiences are only possible in America, I do think that freedom of religion facilitates such experiences. In America, there is a separation between religion, ethnicity, and nationality.
In the Middle East, religion dictates the rhythm of life in a way unbeknownst to many Americans. Religion is as much a matter of nationality and history as belief. Three weeks into my semester in Amman, I’ve begun to gain an understanding of how these ideas apply to Jordanian society. In Jordan, religion is a fixed identity marker. Affiliation begins at birth, with a civil ceremony rather than a religious one. Birth certificates are marked with religious affiliation: Christian or Muslim. Religion is also intertwined with opportunity; what religion you’re born into sets you on a specific track and often dictates your neighborhood, school, and social circle. For example, as Islam is part of the standard school curriculum, most Christian families opt to send their children to Christian private schools. However, even Christian children must learn verses from the Qur’an if they want to successfully sit for government exams.
Recently, my writing class looked at obituaries from a local newspaper and talked about religion. After reading the obituaries out loud, the professor asked the class what religion we thought the deceased belonged to. She explained that the blessings in each obituary, either from the Qur’an or the Bible, gave away the religious affiliation. We spent the next portion of class talking about religious stratification in Jordan and learning vocabulary words related to religion. One student asked, “What do I say if I’m not religious?” “ The professor answered, “But that means you’re not practicing. In Jordan, even an atheist is a member of something, at least on paper.”
In the United States, where an increasing number of people profess to be religious “nones,” or “spiritual but not religious,” it’s interesting living in a society where religion is more clear-cut. Want a challenge? Try explaining interfaith marriage, much less children, to a Jordanian. Though the Jordanian government only officially recognizes Christianity and Islam, there are some additional religious groups living in Jordan, including Baha’is and Druze. However, members of these faiths often struggle with identity politics. These religious communities are often mislabeled as Muslims, which can make matters of citizenship difficult.
One notable Abrahamic faith absent from Jordanian policy is Judaism. Jordan is one of the few Arab countries that has official relations with Israel. Yet, Jordanians’ feelings towards Jewish people is a more complicated matter. For many Jordanians, Judaism is conflated with Israel. Opinions of Jewish people are influenced by family history, lore, and anti-Semitic tropes. While Jewish people can’t hold Jordanian citizenship, they can visit Jordan. Some even live here, including many American students and non-government organization employees. Only three weeks into my semester, I’m continuing to learn more about the Israeli-Jordanian relationship. As one of my academic focuses is Muslim-Jewish relations, so I’m eager to learn more about the Jordanian context as the semester continues and my Arabic improves.